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Q: What should we do about our parking lot cracking?

A: Pavement cracking in the Mid-West is inevitable. Departments of Transportation spend billions of dollars studying, chasing, filling, and sealing cracks trying to find the ultimate prevention. The fact is, the freeze and thaw of Winter causes excessive ground movement. Asphalt is a flexible pavement, but cannot stretch enough to compensate for the heaving. The most cost effective maintenance item you can do for your pavement is to seal the cracks to keep moisture from destroying the stone base below the surface.


Q: What does asphalt resurfacing mean?

A: Resurfacing your pavement means installing another layer of bituminous asphalt on top of your existing pavement, typically 1½” thick. In most cases we grind (or remove) existing asphalt where the new surface meets existing surfaces, such as concrete. We call these “butt joints”. Butt Joints allow the pavement thickness to continue all the way to the edges, and avoids “feathering” or thinning down the asphalt to meet those connections.

There are cases where your entire pavement must be either milled down or completely removed to accommodate the new surface and achieve proper elevations.


Q: How can we fix deteriorated areas on our blacktop parking lot?

A: Most deteriorated areas require complete removal of the surface to repair the stone base. In extreme cases, we must completely remove and restore the stone base to properly support the new asphalt surface. We refer to this as “re-base”.


Q: How can we get rid of water “ponding” in certain areas of our blacktop?

A: In many cases, getting rid of ponding is one of the most difficult thing to accomplish. Surrounding elevations, structures, and curbs complicate trying to provide positive water flow. Ponding areas usually can be corrected by resurfacing, cutting out, or re-heating the pavement to lower high areas and fill low areas.


Q: What is the most inexpensive method to make our blacktop look good again?

A: The most inexpensive way to get a new looking surface is to have professionals apply tar emulsion or asphalt emulsion seal coat material. Correct products, quantity of sand or additives, or number of coats is dependent upon the current condition of your pavement. Our professionals will visually inspect and recommend the best solution for your pavement.


Q: What is the procedure to widen and create a new blacktop area?

A: Grass, vegetation, and topsoil are not suitable base to be under asphalt surfaces. All organic material must be removed to solid clay subbase dirt. The dirt should be compacted, and a minimum of 6-8” of Type #304 stone base installed. We recommend a minimum of 1 ½” of 402 intermediate asphalt and 1 ½” of 404 surface layer asphalt over new pavement areas. Uses for vehicles heavier than automobiles require thicker specifications.




Q: Our tennis court surface is worn and /or flaking. Can we just repaint it?

A: Yes! In most cases, proper cleaning, grinding, or treating your surface before applying our acrylic coating process will give you a new tennis court playing surface. Even minor low areas can be filled and leveled!


Q: Do we need to asphalt resurface or “overlay” our tennis court to make it brand new again?

A: Our experts will determine the best solution for restoring your tennis court. Sometimes a new layer of asphalt is essential. For heavily cracked tennis courts, if surrounding elevations permit, we can install a “limestone dust overlay.” A thin layer of stone dust is placed between the existing surface and new asphalt paving to prevent reflective cracking. In extreme cases, the entire asphalt surface must be removed to expose and repair the existing stone base before new asphalt is installed.


Q: Why is our tennis court only crackin on the stripes?

A: As thermal conditions change, due to different colors absorbing sunlight heat at different rates, and stripes on tennis courts are an extra layer of paint, the most obvious flexing point is at the edge of the stripe.


Q: What can we do about leaning or up heaved net posts?

A: Leaning or heaved net posts cannot be straightened. They must be removed and replaced and imbedded in specially designed concrete foundations.




Q: What is the difference between latex and polyurethane running track surface?

A: A latex track surface is made up of granules or strings of rubber held together with a liquid latex binder. Typically the surface is made up of multiple layers of rubber and latex to achieve a thickness of at least 3/8”. Longevity is about 8-10 years.

A Urethane surface is much more complex. Varieties of urethane surfaces include paving a “base mat” only, spraying a “structural spray” surface, or even installing a “full pour” surface. In any case, urethane is the best. All of the premier tracks in the world are some form of urethane systems. Longevity is 15-20+ years. The downside is that high end surfaces can cost over $250,000!


Q: What would cause our existing rubber running track surface to “bubble” in areas?

A: In most cases, “bubbling” of the surface course is caused by trapped underground water. When the rubber can no longer “breathe”, the moisture gets between the asphalt and the surface and de-laminates it.


Q: Can we patch the bad areas instead of replacing the entire surface of our running track?

A: Yes, you can patch the bad areas of a track by cutting them out and replacing them. Unfortunately, they look like patches in your track.